Main > DERMATOLOGY > Wrinkle Reduction > Chromanone. (4-Chromanone)

Product USA. C

PATENT ASSIGNEE'S COUNTRY USA
UPDATE 02.00
PATENT NUMBER This data is not available for free
PATENT GRANT DATE 01.02.00
PATENT TITLE Cosmetic skin care compositions containing 4-chromanone

PATENT ABSTRACT Cosmetic skin care compositions containing 4-chromanone. The inventive compositions improve barrier function of the skin.

PATENT INVENTORS This data is not available for free
PATENT ASSIGNEE This data is not available for free
PATENT FILE DATE 04.12.98
PATENT REFERENCES CITED This data is not available for free
PATENT CLAIMS What is claimed is:

1. A cosmetic method of treating aged, photoaged, dry, lined or wrinkled skin, the method comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR3## and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. A cosmetic method of improving the barrier function of the skin, the method comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR4## and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

3. A cosmetic method of improving keratinocyte differentiation, the method comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR5## and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

4. A cosmetic method of improving the lipid production by keratinocytes, the method comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR6## and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

5. A cosmetic method of improving the sebum production by sebocytes, the method comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR7## and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

6. A cosmetic method of improving sebum production by sebocytes in the skin of post-menopausal women, the method comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR8## and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
PATENT DESCRIPTION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic compositions containing 4-chromanone, and methods of improving the cosmetic appearance of the skin by applying such compositions to the skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The human skin consists of two major layers, the bottom thicker layer, dermis and the top thinner layer, the epidermis. Dermis is the layer which provides the strength, elasticity and the thickness to the skin. With aging, the thickness of the dermal layer is reduced and this is believed to be partially responsible for the formation of wrinkles in aging skin. The top layer of human skin or the epidermis which provides the resilience and the barrier properties of the skin, is composed of many different cell types. Keratinocytes are the major cell type of the epidermis (75-80% of the total number of cells in the human epidermis). Within the epidermis the keratinocytes reside in four distinct stages of differentiation. Epidermal differentiation is important for providing the essential function of the skin, namely to provide a protective barrier against the outside environment and to prevent loss of water from the body. Formation of the cornified envelope is the final stage of keratinocyte differentiation. The enzyme responsible for the formation of cornified envelopes, transglutaminase, is a marker of epidermal differentiation.

Another factor, in addition to skin thickness, imparts the barrier function to the skin. Layers of lipids in the skin form a "water barrier" which prevents water loss from the skin, and, consequently, the appearance of aged, dry or wrinkled skin. These lipids consist predominantly of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. In normal skin, if the barrier function is perturbed, the epidermis re-synthesizes the deficient lipids. Under certain conditions, however, a reduced capacity for re-synthesis may occur. This is especially so with aging or dry skin, where skin lipid levels are in any case sub-normal.

Agents which increase the thickness of the dermal layer and increase the lipid levels in the epidermal layer should therefore be ideal compounds for providing skin conditioning and anti-aging benefits.

In addition, sebum secretion decreases in post-menopausal women. Hormone replacement therapy elevates it toward pre-menopausal levels. Reduced sebum secretion in post-menopausal women may be associated with the skin dryness commonly noted in this group. Any material which enhances sebum production may provide a benefit to these women.

The present invention is based at least in part on the discoveries that the exposure of cultured keratinocytes to 4-chromanone results in the enhancement of differentiation and the expression of lipids essential to barrier function. 4-chromanone was also able to elevate sebum production in human sebocytes.

4-chromanone is a synthetic material, which is used as a starting material in syntheses of biologically active compounds. U.S. Pat. No. 3,864,484 (Madaus) mentions polyhydroxyphenyl chromanones for use in therapeutic compositions to protect from liver damage and inflammation. U.S. Pat. No. 4,065,574 (Moon et al.) mentions the use of 4-chromanone as a starting material for antifungal compounds but application to human skin is not disclosed. Japanese patent application 55111410 discloses the use of 3-Hydroxy-chromanone for skin lightening and sunburn prevention. 3-Hydroxy-chromanone is a tyrosinase inhibitor and uses 4-chromanone as a synthetic starting material.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention includes a cosmetic skin care composition comprising:

(a) from 0.0001 to 30 wt. % of 4-chromanone of Formula I: ##STR1## (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

Inventive compositions provide enhanced keratinocyte differentiation and enhanced lipid production and improved sebum secretion by sebocytes, which should result in improved barrier function and, consequently, reduced appearance of lines, wrinkles and aged skin, improved skin color, cosmetic treatment of dry or photoaged skin, improvement in skin's radiance and clarity and finish, and an overall healthy and youthful appearance of the skin.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about." All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.

The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, legs, hands and scalp.

4-chromanone has the following structural formula: ##STR2## 4-chromanone can be obtained from Sigma.

4-chromanone is incorporated in the inventive compositions in an amount of from 0.0001 to 30%, preferably in order to maximize benefits at a minimum cost, in an amount of from 0.001 to 20%, most preferably from 0.001 to 10%.

Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle

The composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for 4-chromanone in the composition, so as to facilitate its distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.

Vehicles other than or in addition to water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. An especially preferred nonaqueous carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane. Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging anywhere from about 10 to 10,000,000 mm.sup.2 /s (centistokes) at 25.degree. C. Especially desirable are mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones. These silicones are available from the General Electric Company under trademarks Vicasil, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550 Series. Amounts of silicone which can be utilized in the compositions of this invention range anywhere from 5% to 95%, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually form from 5% to 99.9%, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition. Penetration of the stratum corneum would be essential for activity. Incorporation of 4-chromanone in a liquid formulation would greatly facilitate this penetration, as opposed to delivery from a powder. Thus, preferably, the vehicle is at least 80 wt. % water, by weight of the vehicle. Preferably, the amount of water is at least 50 wt. % of the inventive composition, most preferably from 60 to 80 wt. %, by weight of the composition.

Optional Skin Benefit Materials and Cosmetic Adjuncts

The inventive compositions preferably include sunscreens to lower skin's exposure to harmful UV rays.

Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and derivatives of salicylate (other than ferulyl salicylate). For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation.

An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emollient to provide either a water-in- oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emollient employed. Levels of such emollients may range from about 0.5% to about 50%, preferably between about 5% and 30% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons.

Esters may be mono- or di-esters. Acceptable examples of fatty di-esters include dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl dimerate, and dioctyl succinate. Acceptable branched chain fatty esters include 2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate. Acceptable tribasic acid esters include triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate. Acceptable straight chain fatty esters include lauryl palmitate, myristyl lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate. Preferred esters include coco-caprylate/caprate (a blend of coco-caprylate and coco-caprate), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl adipate and cetyl octanoate.

Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such compounds such as cetyl, myristyl, palmitic and stearyl alcohols and acids.

Among the polyols which may serve as emollients are linear and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds. For example, propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful may be polymeric polyols such as polypropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol. Butylene and propylene glycol are also especially preferred as penetration enhancers.

Exemplary hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are those having hydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Specific examples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, squalene and isoparaffins.

Another category of functional ingredients within the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are thickeners. A thickener will usually be present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to 10% by weight of the composition. Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylate materials available under the trademark Carbopol from the B.F. Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan, carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certain circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a material also serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums in excess of 10 centistokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dual functionality.

Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the invention. These powders include chalk, talc, kaolin, starch, smectite clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof.

Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiers and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.

Product Use, Form, and Packaging

In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 100 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.

The cosmetic skin conditioning composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion, a cream or a gel. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll- ball applicator, or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation. When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. The composition may also be included in capsules such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,063,507 (silicone-based anhydrous composition within a gelatine capsule), incorporated by reference herein. The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.

The following specific examples further illustrate the invention, but the invention is not limited thereto.

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